Muslim Hospitality In La Paz

We ride along a beautifully winding road towards La Paz. A new part of our adventure has started and we are thrilled to have David along with us. He is not only a good friend but, having been here before, he is now our official guide.

Camping near a border crossing is never without risks.
Stand off next to our tent this morning. Bring it on you little white punks! This is my grass!

David having a chat with this little girl in Copacabana while making sure the puppy gets some much needed attention.

The only moment in all of our time together where we were the ones waiting for David to be ready to go. ;)

Lake Titicaca

The last miles of joy before we hit La Paz.

Before long we say goodbye to the beautiful vistas over lake Titicaca as we ride onto a large barge to cross the last obstacle to get to Bolivia’s capital city. The barge does not appear to be seaworthy, but we manage to make it across Lake Titicaca without sinking, so we're all pleased. The traffic into town is bad and somehow we get lost and end up riding through a market. People are helpful and point us in the right direction. Soon we are going downhill into the city. The views are spectacular. 

The ferry to mainland Bolivia.

Look at these faces! We are still afloat! The massive barge is propelled by one tiny little boat engine.

Almost there when it starts raining.

We make it to a hostel that is mentioned on iOverlander. David, who has stayed here before warns us that it is a bit like a prison. As long as that means our bikes are safe it is ok with us! Or so we thought… We literally climb over filthy-looking backpackers doing yoga in front of our room, and drop our luggage next to lumpy mattresses on the floor (Azure insists we never put luggage on beds in case of bed bugs - probably a good call in this instance). The walls are covered in graffiti... some drawings, some famous quotes in a variety of languages. It seems that if you have a marker handy, you can leave whatever you like on the wall. It drives me crazy!

David shows us around town and we start to relax. The people are nice and there is a lot to see. La Paz is situated in a valley and it means that, no matter where you walk, you go up or down a hill. 

Witchcraft market in La Paz. Yes, those are dead alpaca babies...

Absolutely exhausted we make it back up the hill, to our hostel where a large group of Argentinian youngsters have taken over and a party is well on its way. With a sign demanding quiet hours from 10PM we go to “bed” and wait for things to quiet down. 10.30PM and the party is getting louder. 11PM. Through the roof now! Azure talks with the night manager and he points at the sign that says the quiet hour began at 10pm, as if he hasn't realized it is 11pm. At 1AM the party is still going and all I can think off is how to get my revenge in the morning…

With a “Stomp style” percussion act I make coffee at 7.30AM. Grumpy party people start grumbling from their beds and I make even more noise. Only after someone starts cleansing the air from bad spirits with a ritualistic “smote stick” I take it down a notch and start packing the bike. We are out of here! It is our mission to find a new and better place. Many hostels and hotels later and battling city traffic we find a gem. A Pakistani man and his Bolivian wife have set up a lovely Bed and Breakfast and we are welcomed in with a fresh pot of coffee. It reminds me of the hospitality I encountered when I was riding in Pakistan. Casa Skyways is fully booked but when we explain our situation he allows us to stay in a room that he is working on and is not yet furnished. We can decide ourselves how much we want to pay him for it. Yes please! We set up our comfy Nemo air mattresses and sleeping bag and with our bikes in a serene backyard we finally sit down and relax.

Safe and clean bike parking. And the homemade Transalp center stand in action. (very lightweight, cut to size walking cane)

David opted to stay at the other hostel but we meet up again to go to the famous markets of El Alto. We take the cable car up and get a spectacular view of the city. We pass over houses and a massive graveyard. On one of the streets there is a parade going on. The people in our cable car point out a car wedged into a ravine. What a way to see the city! With a warning to look after our stuff, we leave the cable car and walk onto one of the biggest markets we have ever seen.  

The Red Cable Car taking us to the El Alto market. A great way to see La Paz.

La Paz's famous cemetery.

We make a quick stop to see this colorful and extremely busy graveyard.

What a city!

Hell of a way to park your car!

Colors, colors, colors.

Restocking electrical parts at the El Alto market.

We have heard a lot of bad stories about Bolivia and La Paz. The people would be very nasty towards foreigners and absolutely not helpful. Yes, the city is very hectic but it is also very lively and beautiful. We have a great time and enjoy having a couple of days to relax. Azure's thumb injury is still bothering her so much to her chagrin, I swap her Sahara 3 rear tire for a chunkier Metzeler Karoo 3 while she looks on. Once her thumb is healed, both she and the Transalp will be ready to handle the sand that is waiting for us in the South. With that, we ride our of La Paz and head for Oruruo. 

Another bonus of riding with the Mosko's in front: A good place to stow a spare tire.

"Roel, could you change it for me this time, please?" How could I say no!

A Bribe And A Beer... Please!

We've tag-teamed this blog post as Azure had a more, erm, interesting experience on the Peruvian side of the border and Roel definitely had a more interesting experience on the Bolivian side - we hope you enjoy!

Azure:

I get back to the shore after my tour of the Uros Islands and the guys are ready to hit the road. Roel has a sheepish look on his face. It turns out that the hotel manager had quoted him the hotel price in dollars yesterday, assuming he was American. It was $100 dollars per room - no 100 pesos - DEFINITELY not in our budget. Apparently, the manager realized it was his mistake and honored a price of 100 pesos… Some things really are too good to be true. 

Colorful parade passing by our hotel in the morning. Nice kind of traffic jam!

Oh Peru, we'll miss you!

We ride around Lake Titicaca to the Bolivian border and enjoy running into a few Carnival celebrations, here and there. The line at migration is huge, and Roel waits with the bikes while David and I get stamped out before he waits in line and does the same. With the bike paper work, David and I head into Customs to get the bikes stamped out of the country, and are relieved to see we are the only ones here. This should be quick. But we’re ignored as the official tap-tap-taps away on the computer in a side office. And then we’re told another official will be with us shortly. Shortly, is 10 minutes later. 

This parade was so energetic and captivating, Roel dropped his bike. Blame David for the lack of photographic evidence ;)

Very "Official" in here. There should be no problem whatsoever!

This guy closes to the door to the office and then comes out and tells us that the official we originally spoke to is too busy processing a backup of documents to handle ours today. Apparently, they had a computer problem and now have a backlog of customs documents to process. He gestures to the stack of papers the official is supposedly working on. I politely ask if it wouldn’t just be possible to add our papers to this stack. We wait, rolling our eyes, knowing what is coming.  He opens the door and closes it behind him as if not to bother the other official who is busily working away on his stack of papers. He gives David and I the international gesture for money. If we can give the official a little money it will be possible to process our paperwork today. 

We are livid. And I am adamant that we are not paying. (1. I have made it this far without paying a bribe, I am certainly not going to start now. 2. We actually have no Peruvian cash left as we stocked up on good Peruvian fuel before crossing the border and used the remainder of our cash to do so. This would mean parting with precious USD. No, this is not happening.) The problem is that the Bolivian border will close in an hour, so playing the “waiting” game here on the Peruvian side will mean camping at the border. No problem, we have tents. Sorry, dude. The border official decides it would be a better tactic to speak to “my man” and goes outside to tell Roel to come inside and talk to him, fully ignoring me. I am used to waiters talking to Roel about my food instead of me. I’m used to gas station attendants only talking to him. But this takes it to a new level. I’m mad. I tell him Roel doesn’t speak enough Spanish to discuss this matter with him, and he continues to ignore me. I am now fully enraged. 

Roel tells him in his worst Spanish that he does not speak Spanish. The official shakes his head and continues to gesture to Roel to come inside. I am a heritage mutt, the kinds of which this sorry Peruvian man has obviously never encountered. I am Irish, Polish, Hungarian and a little bit Native American. Not the kind of women you mess with. Not the kind of women you ignore. So I ask if we can camp there. He says sure. Sweet! Game on! I grab the tent bag and point to a spot on the grass next to their office and ask “can we set up our tent here?” Now he’s pissed. He doesn’t look at us, but points to the paperwork we’re still holding and gestures to us to come in. Where is the STAPLES “That was easy” button when you need it?

Proof we exported the bikes from Peru. Just in case we want to come back here one day and they did not actually process the paperwork.

Roel:

There is a long line up with people that want to join the party on the Bolivian side of the border. Colorfully dressed people and wheelbarrow loads of beer cross the border. After our exit out of Peru we worry about making it through within the hour that’s left to process all the paperwork. The passports are done in no time. Azure, being an American citizen has to cough up a whopping 160 US Dollar to get in whereas the Dutchy goes in for free. A very welcoming and helpful man takes care of our bike paperwork. He seems to be as eager to finish his day, as we are to cross the border. All is well until he sends us over to the police for an approval stamp. 

The Aduana building is behind the blue sign and the police building is to the left of the white sign.

Someone is ready to celebrate. We'll join you in a second buddy!... or so we hope.

The officers are professional and we answer their questions. He is about to give his ok when he asks: “Do you have your insurance papers”? Damn! “No, we do not sir. We tried to get it in Puno but no one could sell it to us”. “But you have to have insurance in Bolivia... It’s the law”!

I try to explain again that we tried but he is not having any of it. I get frustrated with the situation but before I can utter another word, Azure takes over. She had noticed my mood change and gives me a gentle kick against my shin to make me shut up. As she pleads for forgiveness I drop to my knees to be smaller than the officer behind the desk and promise to get insurance as soon as possible. A few more minutes go by before the officer looks at his boss who nods ok. “But you have to get insurance in La Paz or you will be in a lot of trouble. ”These guys are not looking for a bribe. They are officially allowed to refuse us entry without insurance and it fully depends on your behavior whether they let you in or not. Thanks to Azure for saving they day! With 5 minutes left on the clock we make it back to the Aduana official where we get our final stamp and a copy of the paperwork and we are off into Bolivia!

With all of our paperwork done and no bribes paid, we truly enjoy our last sunset over Lake Titicaca.

From our first border crossing with David, back in Guatemala, we always celebrate our successful navigation of bureaucracy with a local beer. While David and Azure suss out the beer situation, I go for a wander to figure out what the party is all about. I still have my helmet on so I can capture all the festivities with my SENA camera without the crowd getting upset with me. Initially they look at me as if an alien has just landed between them but seconds later they start laughing and I get a beer pushed into my hands. I take my helmet off and say: “salud”!

The noise was horrible but the atmosphere was simply amazing!

Before finishing my first cup I find myself with two more cups shoved into my hands. When the bottles start appearing I excuse myself and tell them I still have to ride. I climb back up the hill where David and Azure are still trying to buy beer. “No more for me guys!” David is having difficulties getting clarity on the price of the bottles. As the discussion lasts, the price only goes up. “Oh well, we’ll just have 3 beers please”. We ride away from the border and find a quiet place on the lake to set up our tents and enjoy our beers.

Crash Recovery = Exploring the Floating Islands of Uros on Lake Titicaca

Packing up the bikes in our canyon campsite.

(Azure's back for this post - Roel has some steering head bearings to replace)

 (Azure's back for this blog - Roel has some steering head bearings to replace.)

(Azure's back for this post - Roel has some steering head bearings to replace(Az

We wake up in our canyon campsite to a beautiful sky and delightfully warm temperatures. I do an interview with David about his journey. It’s inspiring, funny and I promise once I have a few spare minutes, I’ll post it. The best part was, somewhere in all of this, David decided to continue riding with us in Bolivia.

With big smiles, we head out and I manage to look in the direction I don’t want to go (towards some jagged rocks next to a slope) and I have a whopper of a crash. (Thanks to David for the video that provided the stills below. My parents read this blog, and I figured it would be best to spare them the video.)

Uh-oh!! These two guys showed up to look for special rocks in the canyon right as we were leaving... they got more than a show than they bargained for ;) But they did kindly help pick up my bike afterwards.

Weeeee!!!

I think I deserve points for style on this one - twisting mid-air is not easy to do! If I had on a pair of ice skates, I think it would look like a triple-toe-loop.

But it meant I landed on my back instead of my face - here you can see where my legs are about to go over my head backwards. I think I deserve a "10"

It’s the first time I’ve actually felt any concerning pain after falling off my bike. My right thumb is strained or sprained, so is my ankle, and I’m super grateful my Arai helmet was between my head on the massive rock it landed on. A scratched helmet is much better than a broken noggin. 

At some point during my crash, my SENA 10c was snapped off of it's mount. Fortunately we have extra mounts, so after a few minutes, we're ready to go.

With a lot of pain in my thumb and ankle, we continue on the curvy roads that lead up. 

 

We ride through the Peruvian altiplano and marvel at the changing landscape and brilliant skies. We arrive in Puno well before sunset and try to figure out how to accomplish what needs to be done in this city: We will be crossing into Bolivia tomorrow. We need to find a copy shop to make copies of passports, etc. for immigration. Can we find Bolivian insurance here? Roel needs to have something welded. “And what about visiting the Uros Islands on Lake Titicaca?”, asks both the anthropologist in me and the girl whose throbbing thumb is begging for a break from the bike.

We decide we’ll stay a night and split up the next morning to accomplish everything. We all hunt for hotels with parking but have difficulty finding anything affordable with parking until Roel returns and remarks that he’s found the jackpot - a 3-star hotel with actual queen beds and bathtubs! Somehow, it’s only 100 pesos and even though the parking is in a lot down the street, we jump on it and all enjoy cleaning up before we treat ourselves to our last Peruvian meal.

The next morning, David dutifully updates his Ride Report and prepared for the border crossing. Roel copies our paperwork and gets his welding done. And I am picked up and brought to the marina at Lake Titicaca for my tour to the Uros Islands.

Lake Titicaca: (despite what many would like the translation to be), in Quechua is: Titi = Puma and Caca = Stone... so,  "Stone of the Puma" is the literal translation.

The Uros Islands are a group of man-made reed islands that float about 5km from the shores of Lake Titicaca near Puno. Today’s Uros Islanders are descendants of a pre-Incan civilization that initially created the islands as a means of defense. Some articles online state that hardly anyone actually lives on the islands anymore and they are just a tourist trap.
We arrive on an island with several reed huts, a few with solar panels connected to them. As we step off the boat, I immediately realize how springy the reed surface of the island is under my feet. It’s like walking on soft moss. The central area is set up for tourism with a few bales of reeds staged for tourists to sit on around a cross-section of island where they show us how the islands are built with totora reeds that are layered between wooden stakes strung together by ropes. It’s actually pretty interesting and our guide explains that new layers of reeds need to be laid every 3 months. 

 

 
Immediately after the demonstration, the tourists are “adopted” by Islanders and I am invited into the “home” of Elvira. She invites me to sit on her bed, which is surprisingly comfortable and she settles onto her heels to tell me her story. She is 67 and tells me that she and her husband still live on the island. She was born here and doesn’t plan to leave. They fish and eat birds of the lake. And once a week they go to the mainland to buy fruits and vegetables. Her children live on other islands and she says her grandchildren attend school on the mainland. 

These tiny fish are a staple of the Uru diet.

Elvira takes me out to see the crafts she makes and sells in order to buy fruits and vegetables from the mainland and contribute to her grandchildren’s education.

We are rowed to another island on a traditional boat.

After a little while, we return to the boat that brought us and head back to the mainland. This was definitely a touristy experience and while I would say that 90% of it was sheerly for tourists, there are many islands and it seems tourists only visit a few of them. Also, if no one actually lives here, why bother with all of the solar panels if everyone just goes home to the mainland at night? Ultimately, I decided I didn’t really care… Even if it might be extremely touristy, what I saw is a pre-Incan civilization that has found a way to survive and thrive in an ever changing world. They have maintained some customs and adopted new ones… But they’re still healthy, significant and recognizable which is sadly more than can be said for many ancient civilizations.

Soaking up the peace on Lake Titicaca

Andean Giants and Unlikely Family, OUR Highlights of Peru

The next day we also say goodbye to Tim and Patrick. They want to pick up the pace and go straight to Lake Titicaca whereas we want to make a little detour. We head south over a high pass taking us up to 15700 foot. It is very cold but the landscape is astonishing.

What can I say... Peru.

Azure getting way to comfortable on dirt with her Metzeler Sahara 3's. Wait for me!

"I want one!"

Look at that beautiful little farm Roel! No, I'm ok, I just wanted a picture from right here!

What happens when you don't use Loctite and ride rough dirt roads... things come loose.

Mother nature pulled some nice "high rises" out of the ground.

Lots of corrugations but a beautiful ride none the less.

15,758ft to be exact. No problem at all for these good old Honda's

After two days of mostly dirt roads we find ourselves riding along the Colca River. We ride through old settlements where the people are still working the pre-Inca stepped terraces with oxen. The river has cut out one of the deepest canyons in the world. 

 

Pre-Incan stepped terraces near Colca Canyon.

Looking for suitable camp sites.

Not the most suitable campsite...

Sunset over Colca Canyon.

Good morning! Bring on the super sized pigeons.
Colca Canyon is at least twice as deep as the Grand Canyon to give you an idea.

I'll watch for condors from here...

We find a nice place to camp far enough away from the edge.Ever since I was a little boy I wanted to see a condor in the wild. My sister had gotten her hands on a condor feather in a zoo and its size was so impressive. They seem to hang around in the morning so I get up extra early not to miss them. Hours go by and not a dot in the sky. The hill down the road gets absolutely packed with people though so something must be happening. Nothing. Another hour goes by.

Hey guys, seen any big birds lately?

How about you?

Not sure if we are in the right place but I would not want to be in the crowd over there. (picture taken with zoom lens)

For a second I thought.... but no.

Just when I am about to give up a shadow falls over me. I look up and see a massive bird sail by. I run to the edge of the cliff to catch another glimpse and to my surprise I see him circle and come back. I get three private fly by's and during the last one he looks at me as if he wanted to say; “do you have your damn picture”? With a smile from ear to ear I walk back to Azure, thankful to be sharing this moment with her. 

Hello beautiful!

Being checked out by a juvenile Andean male Condor with a wingspan of about 9 foot.

Not sure if she is just happy to have seen a Condor or happy for me to have seen one from so close.
Thanks for sharing the moment with me, Az!

We ride back towards Chivay, waving happily to the officials at the “tourist trap” where you normally have to pay about 20 dollars to be allowed on the road that leads to “Cruz del Condor”. Another bonus of riding around Peru on our own bikes: we had arrived the afternoon before after they had closed the "trap" for the day. 

Azure asking for directions.

The warm fuzzy feeling from our morning in the sun with condors quickly disappears as we climb back up to about 15900 Foot and it starts to rain. And then hail. It had been such a beautiful day and now this. Freezing cold we keep riding for about 2.5 hours until we finally start going down hill towards the volcano surrounded city of Arequipa. We make a quick ride through the historical old town before we settle into the hostel. I honk my horn a couple of times at the gate and after a few seconds a familiar face opens the door. 

Plaza des Armas, Arequipa

The Hepco & Becker pannier rack has been on the bike for more than 14 years and for over 300.000 kilometers. Many crashes and drops have taken it's toll so it's time for a new one. It just means I have to adjust the rack for the Zarges case. David and I are talking about solutions here.

Sunset in Arequipa.

UNESCO world heritage center of town.

We catch up with David for a few days and do an oil change on the bikes in preparation for Bolivia. David has been there already and his experience there does not make him want to go back. We do agree on riding together for a day though. Destination... an orphanage in Moquegua. We learned about Hogar Belen in Alaska, when we met Neale Bayly and Ray McKenzie near the Arctic Circle. Neale had stumbled upon the orphanage during one of his rides in Peru and was so humbled by Madre Loretta’s work that he set up Wellspring International Outreach, an organization that supports and brings awareness to abandoned children around the world. It has been over a year since we met up North but visiting the Hogar has been on our to do list ever since.

From Arequipa we ride through a dry dessert landscape. There is nothing out here but we are just enjoying the fact that we are here, on two wheels and with one of our best riding friends. As we get closer to Moquegua we realize that we don’t know what to expect at all and what’s more, they are not expecting us.

Enjoying our last ride with David.

I had looked up the Hogar on google maps. There should be a bridge over a river leading to the orphanage. Well, there is no bridge to be found around here. We turn around and try again. Then we see a small sign that says “Hogar”. No bridge though. We ride through what’s left of the river and up a long drive way. The road turns right and leads us to a farm. It is a big place and we are not really sure if it’s the right place. We shut off the bikes as a woman comes out to greet us. And slowly, several kids come out, curious about the three bikers. We explain we are friends of Neale and a smile appears on the older woman's face. She is really nice and invites us in for dinner, no questions asked. There are a lot of people in the room; most of them kids but remarkably many young adults and older people. The youngsters are taking care of the little ones and the people with disabilities and we conclude they must all be working there. There is a whole table with older people as well. It seems like a lot of people working here for the number of kids. We don’t really know what to make of it.

The  lady sits us at a table and serves us dinner. We feel a little awkward. But don't know what to do, so we eat the simple but healthy meal and wait for what's next.

After a while the young guys come over for a chat. They are very nice and welcoming and soon everyone is gathered around the bikes. Once the little ones get comfortable with us they are all over the bikes. Horns are beeping and lights flashing as one after the other climbs on top. Since the kids have a day off school tomorrow it is decided that we will have a bonfire with marshmallows and hotdogs. We are kind of hesitant since we still don’t know what to make of the situation and we don’t want them to spend money on this just because we are visiting. The director ensures us that it is not a problem. They love having visitors and the kids love a good fire.

Geography lessons by David.

A bike full of kids.

The WR250 was very popular among the kids. Very accessible switches for switching lights on and honking the horn may have been the reason.

The boys are getting the fire started and before long we all sit in a big circle on big tree trunks. The kids are all over us and having a great time. We start talking to the older guys and girls and slowly but surely everything falls into place and we begin to get an idea of what is going on here. 

While Azure is getting in some girl time...

I'm getting choked!

The Transalp saves the day!

The older guys and some of the older girls had been orphans as well. They had grown up at the Hogar and had stayed on to help out with the little ones and take care of the farm to provide food. We learn that the older people running the Hogar also came in here as orphans a long time ago. Even the director had been one of them. He has been in charge ever since Mother Loretta had died last year. Some of the young mothers are here with their children because of “family problems”. The picture becomes clearer every minute. All these people have had a very difficult past without anyone to love them and take care of them. Here they are a family. A very strong family that takes care of one another. It is heartbreaking to hear some of the stories but heart warming to see the family they have around them here. The kids come over for hugs all the time. They really seem to want to give love. Two little sisters, who are there with their mom, give David and me long, intense hugs every 15 minutes or so. They are lovely kids and although there are many grown man around, they really seem to be missing a father figure. A few hours ago we did not have a clue what was going on here but now here we are, around a bon fire, part of very special and beautiful family. Our hearts open, and exploding with emotion.

Give the Americans some marshmallows. That will put a smile on their face.

Hot dogs on sticks coming up!

In the morning we try to help out where we can. David and I move some pigs around while the kids feed the ducks and the goats. Azure helps the girls with lunch preparations, learning more about their stories along the way. We are playing soccer for a while when the director comes to bring us to mother Loretta’s resting place to pay our respects. We learn that she never intended to start an orphanage but that a young girl was left near the church one day. No one knew where she had come from, or who she belonged to. And thus began Hogar Belen. From that day forward, Madre Loretta helped care for over 350 children and she continued this work until she passed away last year. 

Getting some work done.

Showing off my Dutch soccer skills.

Making new friends (I later learned that he was just after my food. "He just loves food", the director told me.)

That's a lot of potatoes.

Madre Loreta's final resting place.

Back at the orphanage we spend some more time with the kids. We would have loved to stay here for a while and help out but we have to move on and ride south. After a long round of goodbyes and many hugs, we ride out. Emotional because of what we have seen here and the love we received. Emotional because we want to help in any way we can but we just don’t have the resources right now. 

Look at these cuties! or should I make this: WE WANT YOU!... to help us out... please.

Multipurpose stickers...

The kids got their hands on the camera. I have about a hundred of these pictures.

Saying goodbye with tears in my eyes. This girl has my heart.

Azure had asked one of the girls what they needed at the Hogar. She had answered that they really had what they needed at the farm. A safe place where everyone looked after one another. The one thing she was worried about was the future of the children. Their are no computers at the Hogar for the kids could learn how to use them. For the kids to ever be able to make it “out there” they would need these skills. It is something we would really like to help with and as soon as we make it back to the US we’ll try to make this happen. 

The ride out takes us through the river again. We have learned that the bridge they had got washed out during a heavy rainstorm. During the next wet season this simply means they are cut of from the city. We are so glad we made it out to Hogar Belen. It humbled us to see them all function as one big family and it made us even more thankful for our own families who love us and support us in whatever we do.

With our heads still processing last day’s experiences we try to find a place to camp. We find a spot in gorge along a dry river. It’s a tricky road with loose gravel and some big rocks along a steep drop off. Azure is not with it and puts her bike down hard. She tries again but she can’t get it up there. It’s been a long day and we are all tired. I ride up the Transalp and after a quick meal we go to sleep. The next morning we enjoy a nice breakfast while Azure interviews David on his travels and his experience at the orphanage. David is planning to go south into Chile so our roads will part once again.

David AKA Junyah caught on tape.

Live on the road.

For more information about Wellspring International Outreach or if you want to help, please visit wellspring-outreach.org or send us a message via our website www.MyTicketToRide.com