Back to Civilization

(That is if you call army guarded gas stations with 100+ cars and trucks lined up in front of it civilized...)
The problem with being in the far corner of a country is that you have to go all the way back over the same road. The same towns, the same checkpoints. But after all of yesterday's adventures it is nice to ride back through the "known".
Glad to be back on tarmac, cruising through the seemingly never ending Sabanas.
However, the known also means I have to find gas again in places where it was already hard to come by. Last time I bypassed "El Dorado". It's name seems to be a nice cover up for the mafia that run the place, according to the army check point. "If you don't need gas, don't go there". I do need gas so there I go. Motorcycle taxi's are everywhere. It's busy and filthy. Half way into town a long line of cars are almost blocking the road. As I ride by them and get closer to the only gas station in town I realize that they are lined up for gas. The army has locked off the station with chains and only a hand full of people are allowed in. Trucks with empty barrels are everywhere. This might become a problem... I am not allowed in. I ride to the other side and try to get a feel for the situation. I chat with a few guys and they signal an armed guard. The guy comes towards us. The way he carries his shotgun tells me he is not to be messed with. With a serious look on his face he asks how much gas I need and lifts the chain so I can ride under. I'm being taken to the front of the line and get a full tank. A payment is not accepted. This country just will not cease to surprise me.
A strange urge makes me ride through town a bit to get a better idea of what all the fuss is about. I end up on a dead end street and conclude that it was a stupid idea. Riding by once on a big packed up bike will only make people stop and stare but if you give a possibly bad guy a second chance... No bueno! I ride back a bit faster. A lady figures I am lost and offers help but I'm going too fast and do not intend to stop. FEAR??? Missed opportunity to get to know the real story? I think so. The army guys give me a thumbs up when I ride back through.
Callao, known for it's folklore festival... and easy, safe gas fill-ups :)
Another hour down the road there are two massive, colorful statues of two dancing native people. I get of the main road and ride through the town of Callao where a big folklore festival has just taken place. That would have been nice. The gas station here seems to have plenty of gas and I fill up again to avoid situations like the one I encountered earlier.
Ciudad Guayana is a big city on the Orinoco River. There are a lot of businesses but there is not much activity there. It is something that comes with Venezuela. It is so rich in natural resources and beautiful people but the government makes it impossible for people to make a living. Just to give an example: Every car dealer is completely empty. There is not one new car in the showrooms.

A new showroom but nothing to show. Every showroom in the country looks like this.
I'm on my way to the Northern coast to relax a bit and check out some dive sites. To get there I have to take another ferry. It is strange that there is no bridge connecting the biggest city in the area with the other side. Lots of small boat businesses are thriving because of it. The ferry does not make it all the way to the shore and lets off the vehicles and the people in the water. A young guy is a real gentleman and carries some women to the shore. Western world, come and learn!
An example to many. The young man, not the Ferry.
The land on the other side is as flat as The Netherlands and it's all agricultural land. I blast through it but I won't make it to my planned destination. In the city of Maturin I call it a day. Time to find some WIFI and hopefully another Love hotel. Maturin turns out to be a very modern and clean city. What a contrast with Guayana. How is it possible!?! A Papa Johns Pizza place catches my eye. I pull over at the fanciest "Papa" I have ever seen. The prices are American as well but I treat myself and after a couple of days it is time to send Azure a sign of life. I spend some time on the internet and in the meantime I try to get directions to a love hotel from the staff. It is like they don't understand what I am looking for. They keep recommending expensive hotels but I want my Love hotel room with my bike in the garage right next to me! After some attempts to explain I learn that it is not something that they openly talk about. One of the staff comes over and sits next to me ad explains where I can find one of these "No tell Motels" while the rest of them is just standing there looking at me and smiling. It makes me laugh. I had a good time there and a delicious pizza. They advise me to ride through town and check out the church. I am glad I did. It was a very nice town and it felt really safe to be there.
The beautifully lit church of Maturin, surrounded by parks and art gardens.
I found the Love hotel and rode into my garage. I closed the garage door and tried to get into my room. Locked. A few minutes later I hear a voice through a little slot in the wall. We talk about the price for the night. All is good but she needs something from me that I do not understand. She seems not to be able to let me in until she has what I don't know what it is. It gets annoying and I tell her I will find another hotel. She makes me wait for a minute and then lets me in. It seems the problem has evaporated. While I am unpacking the bike I see another slot in the wall at the level where one would normally see the license plate of the car. That must have been the problem! There is no plate on the front of the bike! Duhh! Note to self: Learn Spanish man!
A typical Love Hotel garage box. Not the cleanest but definitely safe to park the bike... and make a cup of tea. The slot on the bottom is how they would check your license number.
The room is something different. There is a nice round bed and a Jacuzzi (with cold water) and there is a piece of furniture of which I don't understand the purpose. A certain part of it I understand but I can not imagine it being comfortable. It won't let me go and I spend a bit trying to figure out how it should be used. I was excited to see the walls covered in a layer of cork so at least I was in for a quiet night!
A nice round bed, a cork wall, a jacuzzi in the background and a device to... air my KLiM Jacket.
Ergonomically this can't be right.
Well protected I go about trying different positions...
Definitely not comfortable!

Exhausted! How else to entertain yourself when you are alone in a Love Hotel! :)

3 Breakdowns and a Nun

Enjoying a coffee while taking in the view. If only one could wake up like this every morning...
In the morning I climb the muddy road again and follow the red clay all the way to Mount Roraima. The oldest mountain in the world is covered in clouds again and after a cup of coffee with some locals and playing with a giant beetle, I follow the same road back down, enjoying every second of it.
The local wildlife. And my boots are size 14!!!
I normally don't like back-tracking but this is one time I wish I could ride in circles.


Taking in the views together. I love this bike!
Someone had recommended that I ride to Kavanayan because the landscape would be even more spectacular. So I turned left expecting there to be some tar for a while. Well the map was not really accurate. In 2 kilometers it turned into a corrugated dirt road. I asked myself if I was up for this for about 200 Km. I pushed on and tried to find a good speed to fly over the corrugations. Normally I would sit at 60/70 Km/h but with big gaps in the road and actual trenches in it, this was not an option with my already bad suspension. It was hell and I told myself I should not have done it but I had started it so let's finish it!
The good part of the road where I could take one hand off the handlebar to shoot a picture.
2 Hours later I ride into the small town of Kavanayan. The houses are built in a different way. Very strong and made out of rock, instead of mud. It is very peaceful and I find a big old tree on a square in front of a monastery so I can rest in the shade. The door of the monastery is open and 3 similar dogs walk out. They come over and sniff me up ad down a bit. I get the "good folks" stamp and they nestle against my legs. You are never alone out there! A minute later a tiny old lady comes through the door. She welcomes me in and to make me feel extra welcome she opens the other half of the massive door. My Spanish is still not good but somehow I fully understand the nun. She speaks slowly and clearly and there is a peace over her that somehow makes me more fluent. I explain what I am doing and why, while she shows me around the monastery. She is in her eighties and has been there for over 40 years. I can feel her energy as we talk about the beautiful world we live in. When I say that it makes me sad that not more people see the real world we live in and the beautiful people that live in it and that its sad that there are so many problems between these people she takes me to the courtyard. She points to the sky. "Same air", she says. Then she points to the ground, "same earth". And it's just like that...
The monastery. The peace and serenity of this place were exactly what I needed after my ride out here.
She apologizes because she has to go and teach the kids that kept walking in while we were chatting. I could have talked with her for hours but it was time to go. I have a quick bite to eat and top up my oil. I lean against my side pannier and notice it moves. There is a crack in the side pannier frame. All the vibrations snapped a weld in two. Nothing a strap won't fix. But I will have to take it easy on the way back. I take a detour to a viewpoint and take it all in for a minute. Time to back track again!
The problem...

The Fix! Thank you Harley Davidson Perth for these amazing straps. For everyone who told me I would not need a ratchet... I did!

The view... Well worth the ride and the damage.

I love table mountains! :)
10 Km down the road there is a jeep on top of a hill. The people are waiving and I decide to check it out. A French woman and a child with a guide come walking towards me. They are impressed with the map on the side of my Zarges case and instantly start telling me all the other places I have to see and have to visit in this world. Moreso so they can tell me where they have been than anything else. I try to change the conversation into who they are and what brings them here but the urge to finish their list is stronger. The guide joins in and tells me the things I need to see down here or otherwise I might better not have come here at all. I figure it is better not to explain to the man that I would have ridden here all the way just for my 30 minute conversation with the little nun. I tell him that I will visit his sights and then get back on the bike.
The guide also told me that I should not camp in any of the campsites near the main road as they were dangerous and that I should join them at their campsite. I politely declined and know I will be camping in nature somewhere tonight.
Not long after, I ride past a sign pointing in the direction of one of the waterfalls the guide recommended. It was another 13Km's so why not give it a try. 10Km's of loose sand and mud pools later I see a man and I ask him for directions to the falls. He tells me that I need a boat to get there and the last boat has gone for the day. I would have to leave my bike in the middle of nowhere and if I was to go by myself it was going to be expensive. I turned the bike 180 degree and went back to play in the mud.
The engine is making a strange noise. It sounds like it is sucking air from somewhere where it shouldn't. I try to comfort him by telling him I'll give him a lot of attention when we get back to the civilized world. He is not willing to wait that long and with a loud bang and a plume of smoke coming up around the gas tank, I come to a stand still in the middle of nowhere.
Damn! Now what?!? I tried to start the bike but it would not fire up. I looked at the sun and concluded that I would have about 30 minutes of light remaining. I looked around. There was really nothing and no help around. OK. This was going to be a record breaking bike dis-assembly or camping right next to the road. I start taking off the fairing, the fuel tank and the air box. Before taking off the carburetor I push the start button one more time to listen if I can hear where the problem is. It comes from the front of the engine. I try one more time. Then I see the cable of one of the spark plugs laying in a different than normal position. The engine had shot out a spark plug! Initially I am relieved to have found the culprit but then I worry about how it is possible. Vibrations, not tightened properly... There is no time to think it through. I put in a new spark plug, assemble the bike and with the last rays of light I fire up the bike. Phew!
Now open for business. The "middle of nowhere roadside workshop"
Not a bad temporary "office". But the sun is setting...
I ride off and speed up to get through a big pool of mud. Just when I ride into the mud the bike stalls again. There I am in the middle of the mud puddle. What could it... Hold on! I forgot to switch the fuel tap back on! Amateur! With the last bit of light I ride out of the mud and start looking for a suitable place to camp.
Good night sun! Hello Moon!
I am done with going slow and fly up a hill. I forgot the trench on top of the hill and slammed the brakes to late. Bang! The impact combined with the lack of suspension breaks the lock off one of the boxes. That will be enough for one day! I spot a gravel pit and decide to pitch the tent. Something is telling me not to ride any further. Shortly after I crawl into the tent the heavens open up and it pours all night. What a crazy day and what a stunning ride!
One night it's stars and fireflies, the next one I can roll out of the tent and have a mud bath...

Epic Ride to Roraima, Venezuela

In the morning I take a walk in the old town. I'm taking in the beauty of Plaza Bolivar and snap some pictures. A guy walks by and warns me to put away my camera. He tells me there are people on bikes robbing people at gun point. I look at all the police around me but decide to put the camera away. It makes me so sad to feel the fear that these people live with every day. I saw no reason to stay and weighed my options.

Plaza Bolivar

Fresh Juice on the side of the road
I gathered some information on Salto Angel, the highest waterfall in the world, in Canaima National park. Although I would love to see it I concluded it was too much of a tourist trap for me and would cost too much money. Also I would have to leave the bike and I would rather be on the road and use my time to ride down some dirt tracks near Mount Roraima... at 2800 meters the highest and oldest table mountain in the world. This is where they got the inspiration for the "floating mountains" in the movie Avatar.
After a few hundred kilometers of agricultural land the road started to climb and thick rain forest took over. The temperature went down and waterfalls decorated the side of the road. There was hardly any traffic. Many curves later, vegetation disappeared all of a sudden. The road straitened out and the horizon rose up before me. It seemed like the road was going up into the skies.

On top of the hill I slammed my on my breaks and stared into the great, wide open space that is called La Gran Sabana. This was the second time in a week that I was absolutely flabbergasted by what I saw. Green hills rolling all the way to the horizon with impressive table mountains breaking up the landscape. Words can't describe it and neither can a picture do it justice. WOW! The 1600Km and 3 days that it had taken me to get here were already worth it. Just this one view!

Typical example of "words can't describe" what you're feeling and pictures won't do justice to the views.

I know enough Spanish to understand these wise words. For those who don't. "The world is a dangerous place. Not because of those who do bad but because of those who don't do anything to avoid bad things from happening.


I could not resist these tracks. They ended up here...

And looked down on...

Time for a bath!
Riding back over the same track. Hard to keep your eyes on the road...

Colorful shops with local art and another army check point awaiting.
Riding down the hill into paradise was a blessing. The horizon got more and more dramatic and waterfalls seem to appear out of nowhere. The only natural magic that I have ever seen that gets close to this is the middle of Iceland. The tarmac turns to red clay again as I turn in the direction of Mount Roraima. I'm skidding left and right as I am trying to get up a steep muddy road. It goes through my mind that if it would rain right now it would be impossible to get up here.
My shadow rode along for a while over the red clay. It stood out so nice from the greenery and the dark skies.

Junyah - (and everyone else on a dual sport bike) This one should be on your bucket list!
As I am riding back down the hill I worry if I will still get up there tomorrow if it rains overnight.
As I am checking my action camera in the mirror I see a beautiful green hill behind me. A car track leads part way up to the top. From there I would have a stunning view over the valley. Azure would have turned around immediately and claimed it for the night. I always keep pushing till the last rays of sun disappear behind the horizon. I decide to listen to that little voice and turn around. Down the muddy track again and up the trail. The track disappears and I find myself riding through high green grass. On top of the hill awaits the perfect 1000 star hotel with million dollar 360 degree views. If only Azure could be here now.
Do not follow the path. Instead, go where there is no path and leave a trail... Well not this time! Although the trail stopped while riding up the hill in the top left corner of the picture.



In front of me a valley with smaller table mountains stretches out. Behind me is Roraima. To my left and right there are some forests where the birds are telling each other good night. I quickly pitch my tent make a meal. Roraima is covered in clouds but just as the setting sun paints the sky pink the blanket opens up and shows the mountain.

Mount Roraima showing itself for a minute

Thunder clouds are gathering in the distance but the sky above me is clear and the first stars are showing. I feel so fortunate to be here and just when I think it couldn't get better, thousands of fireflies started lighting up my surroundings...
Sunset and walls of rain make for amazing scenery.
Fireflies lighting up my surroundings... Breathtaking! What an end to one of the best days of riding ever!