When
the cloud of dust clears, I see Azure on the ground against her bike.
Her foot hurts but she seems ok. David puts a smile back on her face by
showing her the distance to pavement
with his thumb and index finger. I look at the bull dust hole that took
her out and wonder how it is possible that this happens now after all
this dirt in the past couple of days. I lock the Gobi case that came off
during her pirouette in the sand, back where
it belongs and fix her mirror. Azure gets back in the saddle and, in a
lot of pain, makes it to the perfect tar that is waiting for her on top
of the hill. We are all enjoying the smooth black material under our
tires and rapidly roll down the mountain with
the volcanoes in our mirrors getting smaller and the temperature
getting higher every second.
San Pedro de Atacama is like an oven but we are glad to be
back in civilization and in a country where they are happy to sell us
clean, good gasoline!
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After 4 days of dust this was pure joy! |
After
taking care of customs upon arrival in town, David and I hunt for a
place to stay while Azure stays with the bikes. Every place is shocking
expensive ($40USD+), but the decision
is made easy when one of the hostel owners, upon hearing that Azure has
hurt her foot, comes running with a bag of ice. It is nice to talk to
people again and we get lots of questions about the journey and the
bikes. A good night's sleep later, we are already
missing the silence and solitude of the Lagunas.
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Ice Ice Baby! ...and still smiling! |
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See that little sparkle in his eyes? He's sure to be in the next generation of adventure riders! |
We stock up on water
and food and ride to the Valley of the Moon. A hefty admission fee and
loads of backpackers on bicycles make us turn around and set out for the
Sico Pass to Argentina. We have mixed feelings
about “missing out” on this touristy highlight, but Azure's foot still
isn't in good enough shape to go walking and none of our budgets welcome
high price-tags. When the sun sets, we see a red, rocky outcrop in a
furthermore empty desert and we know we made
the right decision. Aside from some furry creatures we have our very
own valley of the moon. After a simple noodle meal our smiles get even
wider while we sit back in our comfy chairs and enjoy a full moon rise
over us.
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The good thing about the heat is that you have to stop for a sip of water now and then and you get to appreciate your bike and the surroundings from a different perspective. |
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The paved riding was short lived, but we're loving the dirt on Sico Pass. |
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That looks like an awesome place to hide from the wind. The gravel track leading up there was a bit deeper and more loose than anticipated... |
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David claimed his spot on top of a rock. |
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Sunsets are overrated! |
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Moonrise |
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Oatmeal for breakfast on this chilly morning. |
The
landscape does not disappoint but the corrugations are getting old
fast. After a nice stop at the most efficient border crossing in South
America and another one at a checkpoint
where Azure almost steals the guards dog, we're in Argentina! Annnnnd
it is back to corrugation. Azure, still in pain and lacking patience for
the concentration today's ride requires, slams on the brakes and takes a
siesta on her bike while David and I have
lunch in the sand.
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The "I am done with corrugations" pose... |
Finally
we make it to a small town, San Antonio De Los Cobres. There are no ATMs and the gas
station doesn't accept cards. We're directed to change money at a hotel
nearby. The rate is not great, but it
means we can fill up our tanks, get some food and get on our way. A
sign directs us to the beginning of Ruta 40, a famous road that runs
along the Andes and stretches for over 3000 Miles. They are planning to
pave most of it but for now it is back to eating
dust. Soon we are facing a 16.404 Ft pass and we have a bit of an
argument about what we should do. Clouds are coming in on the horizon
and I want to make it over the pass before the weather comes in. Azure
and David have had enough and want to call it quits
as we ride past an idyllic campsite. I push for riding the pass before
setting up camp and reluctantly, they give in.
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Not quite from kilometer "0" but this where the fun starts! Ruta 40. In some sections they have a sign with the remaining distance every kilometer. Quite a tease if you have a couple of thousand k's to go to Ushuaia. |
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The
road is back to back hairpins all the way up and the views are
spectacular. The clouds look threatening though and we can’t wait to be
going down again. The other side of “Abra
del Acay”, the highest pass on Ruta 40 is different. The road up was
good and wide enough for a truck. The road down is washed out, more like
a track, with steep drop offs and to top it all off, strong gusts of
wind. Azure is in heaven! (not) and I opt to
turn down my headset as she expresses her frustration at me for pushing
us over this pass. The going is slow and the steep drop offs are quite
frightening. In some places the cliff next to the road has collapsed
onto the road and we have a hard time getting
by. Many stream crossings later we arrive at the ruins of some
buildings. Just when we're about to set up camp a 4x4 stops and warns us
to get out of there. “The rains that fall here will wash everything
out” the driver says. Tired and exhausted and with the
protection of the ruins, which, it seems, have stood their ground for
many years, we decide to take our chances and we pitch our tents. Not
long after the heavens open up.
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Drying our gear after a night of heavy rains. It was nice to sleep in a house for a change ;) |
We
are thrilled to see blue skies in the morning and after drying our
tents, we continue rolling down the pass. We come across some Frenchies
that are going in the opposite direction
on their bicycles. Respect! It is a beautiful day and the landscape is
getting more colorful as we ride into a valley. Massive cacti are
everywhere and the road conditions have improved dramatically. When a
sign welcomes us to a wine region Azure is the happiest
person on the planet.
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The side of the road had collapsed in many places making it an "interesting" ride down. |
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Respect for the Frenchies! |
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Our kind of road... |
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Complete with colorful graveyards in the middle of nowhere. |
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We rode up and down this section 2 or 3 times... just because we could! |
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As close to heaven as Azure can get on Earth. |
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While David is digesting his first Argentinian "Asado", Azure answers questions about our journey. |
She
is less happy when we end up at a fast flowing river. We look at each
other and conclude that this must be why the group of guys 5 kilometers
back were shouting at us. Ok they
had some beers in their hands but they obviously meant well. :) David
heroically attempts to cross the first small obstacle. He makes it
through but his bike almost completely disappears in the rushing water.
“No way” I hear Azure say. David, upon returning
from checking out the big crossing, has come to the same conclusion. We
have lunch on the side of the road and back track to a bridge over the
river. Just for the record, there were no signs. We fill up gas on the
other side of the bridge and talk to big group
of dirt bike riders that give us advice on how to continue. A car stops
and a man comes walking towards us. “Is this yours?”, he asks, showing
me my bush craft knife. What?!? No way. How did I loose that? Hold on…
How did you find me?!? He says he found it
on the road. I must have left it on my side case after lunch. But that
was 10 miles ago! How did you know it was mine?!? Thankful, I accept my knife and put it back in
its sheath...
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Can we try them all!?! |
We
stop at a small, Belgium style, brewery in San Carlos before heading
into Cafayate. The “Hecho mi Burro” beer is fabulous and the setting
just perfect. After stocking up on a variety
of "Burros" we ride into Cafayate to find a place to stay. We work on
the bikes, taste some wines and have delicious empanadas. Friends of
ours had recommended we ride a road leading Northeast out of town. With a
few hours of daylight left, we marvel at some
of the most spectacular landscapes we've ever seen. Deep purple and
dark red rocks form the horizon and we just don’t know what to do with
ourselves. Then David disappears in some sand dunes and we follow only
to find the biggest smile on the face of one of
our best friends. Happiness. Only a bike ride away!
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Someone is excited about his first wine tasting tour ;) |
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So are we! Especially Azure as I am her DD :/ |
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No better way to end the day than a sunset ride. |
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Argentina is surpassing expectations so far. |
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Looking for David ;) |
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Take that smile off your face! |
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Priceless! |
I am still researching my route for my trip in 2018 but was expecting to go all the way down the Chile side but this post is making me reconsider. You say there's an admission fee to the Valley of the Moon? I thought it was just a road that went through, why is there a fee?
ReplyDeleteIt's a national park, as is the Valley of Death on the North side of the paved road West of San Pedro. The fee is $3,000 Chilean pesos (about $5 per person). You'll get a map with viewpoints and hikes pointed out. NO walking or riding off the road or few trails.
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